Via Appia Antica: reluctance
In classical times, via Appia was the most important trade route in Rome and was called the "queen of roads"; Here goods were transported via Campania to the port of Brindisi. It is no longer the main exit road to the south (this function is performed via Appia Nuova from Porta San Giovanni), but it remains an essential part of early Christian Rome, with a number of underground cemeteries of the first Christians, that is, the catacombs, on both sides.
Ancient Roman law forbade burial inside the city walls (most Romans were cremated) and catacombs can be found in other parts of the city as well. Here, however, is by far the largest concentration of them, a total of five complexes, from the 1st to 4th centuries. Almost all of the corpses have been disposed of, but primitive symbols and murals remained, the work of a flourishing Christian movement. Despite numerous guesses, no one really knows, why Christians chose to bury their dead in these tunnels. A local stone, limestone tuff, it is soft and easy to drill, but even so, digging the corridors was an enormous task, and there is no reason to suppose, that the burial site had to be kept secret - the dead were buried in the catacombs long after that, how Christianity became the official religion. Whatever the reasons, the underground corridors continue to intrigue. You can get to the main cluster of catacombs by bus no 118 from the Colosseum (via San Giovanni in La Terano): the three main teams are in close proximity to each other. It's not worth visiting everyone, because after a while, looking at the multi-level shelves and drawers in stone becomes boring.
Via Appia Antica starts at Porta San Sebastiano, built in the 5th century, and the beginning of the catacombs section is marked by the church of Domine Quo Vadis, located a little further. According to legend, in this place, escaping from certain death in Rome, St.. Peter saw Christ and asked: "Where are you going, Lord?”, to which Christ replied, that he must be crucified again. Then Peter accepted his fate and turned back. After about a kilometer you will reach San Callisto (Thu-Tue. 8.30-12.00 i 14.30-17.00; 3000 L), the first more significant catacombs, where they were buried in the 3rd century. all popes (st. Callixtus was one of them), their graves are located in the papal crypt. There are also well-preserved paintings from the 7th and 8th centuries. A little further west, the less crowded Catacombs of Domitilla extend (Wed-Mon. 8.30-12.00 i 14.30-17.00; 3000 L), adjacent to the ruins of the basilica built in the 4th century. in honor of the martyrs Achilleus and Nereus. Counting 17 km of corridors, the maze is the largest in Rome and has many paintings and early wall engravings.
It is probably best to visit the catacombs of San Sebastiano, located a few hundred meters away (Fri-Wed. 9.00-12.00 i 14.30-17.00; 3000 L), situated under a completely renovated basilica, originally erected by Constantine on the site, where the remains of the apostles Peter and Paul were to rest for some time. A half-hour underground tour takes you through dark corridors with early Christian cult symbols: paintings of fish and doves, a carved oil lamp and date inscriptions on the graves have also been preserved. The most surprising, however, are three pagan graves (one painted, two covered with stucco), discovered during excavation work under the basilica. It was here that Constantine was to build the chapel of St.. Peter and Paul, and although the body of St.. Peter was transferred to the Vatican, and St.. Pawła do San Paolo outside the walls, the found inscriptions confirm, that their remains had been lying here for some time.