Terracina
For more 15 km along the coast from San Felice (buses every half hour) or - coming from Rome - a short distance on the local rail line from Priverno, there is the charming town of TERRACINA. It divides into a collapsing old town high on a hill and a busy new coastal district. In classical times, it was an important stopping place at via Appia, which comes to the sea here. Today it is primarily a bathing beach, one of the nicest on this stretch of the coast, with nice large beaches and numerous connections to other interesting places in the area.
Practical information: accommodation, gastronomy, beaches
You can stay overnight in a number of affordable hotels, for example in the center of Astoria, via Roma 38 (0773/727157), with doubles after 24 000 L; w For You, right on the beach on viale Circe 16 (0773/ 730914), two 25 000 L, and in Vittoria, Mazzini square 1 (0773/727603), two about 30 000 L. The closest campsite is Costazzurra, fifteen minutes walk along the coast, but the price 17 000 L for two people with a tent is not that much of a saving compared to a hotel bed.
Biuro AAST, tuż kolo Mazzini Square (VII VIII 9.00-12.00 i 17.00-18.00; the rest of the year 9.00-12.00) has more complete information, hotel list and city map. Bicycles can be rented at Caccia e Pesca, via Roma 9, for about 8dt)0 L per day. Nice food at Pizzeria Marino in Piazza Repubblica. The cheap pizzas there are very popular among the locals; if you don't like pizza, you can go to miramore, viale Circe 32, at the end of viale Vittoria, where prices are also low, and the terrace has a nice atmosphere. As for the beaches, that's not counting the oval stretch of sand in the city center, they go north almost forever and there is never too much congestion.
City
Terracina is divided into two completely different parts, the old town on the hill and the new town below, whose main street, via Roma, is an extension of via Appia, cutting across the city to the sea. The square in the old town is Piazza Municipio, built on the site of an ancient Roman forum and dominated by the cathedral's colonnade and its elegant one, mossy campanile. It is a lovely little church with a beautiful mosaic floor and a mosaic covered pulpit. Inside you can also find fragments of a Roman temple, on the site where the cathedral was built. There is also a small Museo Archaeologico next to the square (V-IX wt.-sb. 9.00-13.00 i 17.00-19.00, nd. 9.00-13.00; the rest of the year Mon-Sat. 8.00-14.00; Free entrance) with local Greek and Roman finds, including the well-preserved statue of Zeus according to the Hellenistic model.
The Temple of Jupiter Anxurus deservedly enjoys the title of the greatest attraction of Terracina, which crowns the hill above the city. You go up the stairs from Piazza Municipio on via Anxur, from which after 200 m leaves a winding road to the top (40 minutes); you can also after 100 m after the arrow to the temple, turn right and climb the rocky path, which takes half the time. There is a bar at the top with irregular opening hours, but it's better to rely on your own provisions. It is believed, that the temple dates from the 1st century. BC. and was connected to Terracina by long walls, but now only a fragment of the structure in the form of an arcaded terrace remains, from which there is a stunning view. The terracina at the bottom looks like a cardboard model drenched on both sides with the waters of the bay.