Western Elba

The main road to the west from Portoferraio runs through BIÓDOLA, That, next to VITTIICCIO in the north, has the best beaches on the north coast. There are a couple of discos and a decent campsite, Camping Scaglieri (Tel. 0565/940), where is usually the place for all arriving without a car, dog or children.

Located at the crossroads of roads to the south and west, PROCCHIO is a small town surrounded by greenery: oaks, acacias, fir trees, here and there with fig trees and bamboos. The beach is almost not visible under the sun loungers, but the sand is white and loose — free admission and the possibility of renting a board with a sail. Calda di Angelo, near the intersection, is an inexpensive café-restaurant for its standard. There are several hotels (the cheapest is Pensione da Renzo, * 0565/907504 and Pensione La Pergola,0565/907506; deuce from 30000 L), but no campsite.

MARCIANA MARINA, also on the north coast, is not very exciting — a small marina and a pebble beach in the shadow of a cylindrical tower built in the twelfth century. by Pisans. However, after a short bus ride inland (on the side you pass the stands with grappa, where you can make a tasting) you will find yourself at the foot of Monte Capanne, with MARCIANA and POGGIO. They seem isolated, different from other towns on Elba. In Marcian, the remains of the fortress were saved, and in the more attractive Poggio there are nice gardens and decorative gates of houses. You can get to the top of Monte Capanne without having to go on foot, because a primitive and very expensive cable car will take you there (cabinovia) of Marciany. The shortest walking route (marked on the map as trail number 2) leads from Poggio. The hike takes about two hours with a leisurely step.

If you have your own transport, you can cross the island along the road running to the south coast. It runs through SAN PIERO IN CAMPO, village with old stone gates of houses and a church with Roman mosaics. There is also an inexpensive Pizzeria Al Campanile.

Getting to the coast, turn right to SECCHETO. At the western end of the city is a good place to swim among the rocks, and a little further the beach intended mainly for nudists. Nearby CAVOLI is an awkward layout of quite exclusive hotels and beaches, where you can swim on a board with a sail. No campsite (or hostels); from hotels we recommend La Stella in Seccheto (*0565/987013) and Lorenz in Cavola (* 0565/987054).

Turning left, commuting to MARINA DI CAMPO. The swimming pool is very popular – with the largest concentration of hotels on Elba after Portoferraio – but it has clean water, sand in the eastern part, in the western rock and fewer people.

And here you can rent a board with a sail. If you arrive early enough, you will find a place on one of the four campsites; for peace it is better to call in advance — we recommend Pensione Elba, via Mascagni 43 (* 0565/ 97224) and Orsa Minore, viale Etruschi 23 (*0565)92027). It is better not to try to sleep on the beaches, because at night they are regularly patrolled by the police. For a meal it is best to go to Il Golfo at the eastern end of the beach or the magnificent rosticceria/pizzeria at the west end of the main street. Marina di Campo is probably the stormiest nightlife on Elba, for example. on the beach near Bar Tropicana you dance samba until late at night.

Located on the south coast in the middle between Marina and Porto Azzurro, LACONA has a pleasant, but a beach crowded with campsites.