Mountainous ELBA is the third largest Italian island after Sicily and Sardinia: length 29 km, width 19 km. Has exceptionally clean water, beautiful beaches with light sand and lush, wooded areas, perfect for walking. For decades, it enjoyed a reputation for calm, a secluded island – but now it is a stage on the route of organized trips and in August about a million tourists come here. To appreciate the beauty of the island, and even find accommodation, you must arrive long before or after the season; the climate is mild all year round, and ferries run at least once a day.
Over the centuries, Elba has always been outside the mainstream of history — rural, agricultural island, and, of course, the place of Napoleon's exile, which from the highest point of Elba, Monte Capanne, he could see his native Corsica. In earlier epochs, iron ore mining dominated the island., then melted by the Greeks, Carthaginians, Etruscans and Romans. In later centuries, the power was held successively by the Pisans, Genoese, Medici, Spaniards, Turks and finally France: this cosmopolitan mix has left its mark on both architecture, as well as in the types of crops.
Today, the economy revolves entirely around tourism, because the size and topography of Elba allowed the towns and villages on the island to retain their specific character. Practically speaking, the capital is Portoferraio; the best beaches are in Marina di Campo; Marciano and Poggio in the north are sheltered by lush forests and allow access to hiking trails around Monte Capanne. In the eastern part, the military past of the island is visible in the location of Capoliveri on the top of the hill and in the course of the fortifications in Azzurro. (There is still a prison in them).
Portoferraio
For those who are not focused only on sunbathing, the most advantageous will be a stay in Portoferraio. It is the main road and communication junction on the island, with the highest concentration of events and accommodation – except in any case except July and August.
Accommodation
Upon arrival without prior reservation, you must immediately go to the tourist office (•0565/92671), opposite the ferry dock at Calata Italia 26 (pn.-sb. 8.00-13.00 i 15.30-19.30; winter 9.00-13.00 i 16.00-18.00). You can get a map there, bus timetable and list of all hotels, apartments and camping service, and will gladly call in different places, to find some accommodation; as well as the staff of the Associacione Albergatori at Calata Italia 21 (8.30-12.30 i 15.00-19.00; •0565/92754). If none of the offices find anything, you have to go around the bars and ask. During the season, you should expect much higher prices than those given on the official lists.
Cheap hotels in Portoferraio by their standard include: Hotel 11 Faro, via Cairoli 18 (*0565/92364); Hotel Emy, via G. Carducci 5, just outside Piazza A. Citi (• 0565/917661) and Hotel l'Ape Elbana, Salita Cosimo de Medici 2 (*0565/92245), just outside Piazza Repubblica in the old part of the city — twos respectively from 32 000 L, 38000 L and 44000 L. The largest of the relatively cheap hotels — 68 Rooms, so there is a chance, that there will be places —there is Hotel Massimo, Calata (disambiguation) 23 (*0565/92766); deuce from 70000 L. If you manage to gather a group of people, it is more profitable to rent apartments, what is done by the tourist office. Usually there are two double rooms with stove from 60 000 L per day: Cheaper, if you rent for weeks.
The nearest campsites are La Sorgente (*0565/917139) and La Onfola (*0565/915390), in the distance 5 i 6 km, on the road west to Viticcio, and Rosselba Le Palma (•0565/915101), 8 km east in OTTON E. All three are easy to reach, what can't be said about a few other campsites on the island. You have to reach them on foot from rare buses, and the distance to the bad beaches is also considerable.
If there is no accommodation — which happens in July and August — you can spend a few days on the beaches. (although it is officially forbidden). It is best to leave most of your luggage in Depositio Bagagli below the tourist office (2000 L per day), rent a moped (if you can afford it), and hit the road.
Communication
A bike or moped is priceless when looking for accommodation or a better accommodation for the next day, or just when exploring the island. Rentals to Rent Ghiaie, via Cairoli 25, Spiaggia delle Ghiaie (• 0565^92666) and the more professional BrandiMotori, via Manganaro 1 (•0565”92359) in the suburbs. At the Healthtour agency you can make a reservation in advance. Mopeds cost 38 000 L per day, Bikes 22 000.
Buses run regularly from Portoferraio to Procchio (21 quotidianly), Marina di Campo (13 quotidianly) and Porto Azzuro (12 quotidianly). Courses to other destinations are sporadic, and after an hour 19.00 the 20.00 almost stop. The beaches can also be reached by boat, widely advertised in ports.
City tour
Portoferraio consists mainly of a service new part of the city (with tourist office, bus stop, ferry terminal and beach near Le Ghiaie) and the old Medici port in the east, with fortifications and a fishing harbour.
Only two short ones lead to the walled old town, tunnel vaulted passages from the quay. Just behind the walls is Piazza della Repubblica, where every Friday there is a market (good beachwear and leather goods). From here the streets climb the cape slope, m.in. to one of Napoleon's residences, Palazzina dei Mulini (wt.-sb. 9.00-18.30, nd. 9.00-13.00; ticket for 4000 L also entitles you to enter Napoleon's villa in San Martino). The palace was built especially for the emperor in a well-chosen place with views of the bay—and although as ruler he was accustomed to greater splendor, however, the building is nothing to itself. Inside there is a wonderful baroque bedroom, a library with a collection sent from Fontainebleau and various souvenirs – including the Napoleonic flag of Elba (three golden bees). During his ten-month exile, Napoleon was practically the ruler of Elba and neighboring Pianosa.. He maintained a small manor house and numbered about 1000 soldiers army and navy with one ship named "Unstable".
From Palazzina, a marked path leads to a small, Le Viste beach surrounded by rocks. On the way up to the palace you pass by Misericordia, where there is a not very interesting Napoleonic museum.
San Martino
Napoleon's sister, Eliza, bought Villa Napoleonica di San Martino for a summer residence shortly before the emperor left the island. It is located 6 km from Portoferraio on the aurobus route no. 1. On the way is the Museo delle Ceramiche – large ceramic tile walls have been set up under the open sky.
To the villa (visiting hours the same as in Palazzo dei Mulini) a neoclassical palace was added (with fancy N motifs). Prince Demi-dow did so, husband of the emperor's niece, who bought the villa, to transform it into a Napoleonic museum. Permanent exhibitions are not very exciting, but every year temporary exhibitions are organized on some napoleon-related topic. At the back of the palace is a rather modest villa of Bonaparte with the famous graffiti "Napoleon is happy everywhere".
Gastronomy and practical details
Restaurants in Portoferraio are expensive, even for Tuscany. Pizzeria // Castagnac-cio na via del Mercato Vecchio (near Piazza della Repubblica in the old town) is one of the cheapest. Better, but more expensive, is Trattoria La Barca on via Guerazzi, with a wood-burning stove visible from the street; next to it there is an excellent winery, where grappa is also sold. Grocery stores and premises, where you can buy pizza by weight are on via Carducci, just outside the port.
When it comes to services, mail (from poste restante) located in Piazza Hutre, near Piazza della Repubblica; bookstore (brochure editions and some British magazines) by Calata Mazzini 9, in the old port, and public telephones in Bar lAngolo, via Cavalieri di Vittorio Veneto (7.00-24.00). When planning walks around the island, it is worth buying in Communita Montana, viale Manzoni 4, contour map of Monte Capanne area, with all trails marked.
In summer, it is best to book a return ferry ticket much earlier, especially when traveling by car. TO Office. RE. MAR. is at Calata Italia 22, NA V. ARE. MA just around the corner at viale Elba 4. In the offices you can only make a reservation, while the ticket itself is purchased on the day of departure at the kiosks at the quay.