Viterbo
Viterbo is the capital of the province or even the whole of northern Lazio, and undoubtedly the most historic city in the region. W XIII c. to some extent rivaled Rome. The popes moved here for some time after the friction in the capital. Today, only traces of the former splendor remain in the form of a handful of stately palaces and churches. The city is now in a rather deplorable state, and despite that, that it has not been touched by tourist commercialism, it is not worth staying here for a long time, unless to visit the area. Otherwise, it's good to know, that there are many rail connections from Rome, and Viterbo can be visited in a day trip.
City
If Viterbo has a center, this is Piazza del Plebiscito, the square is almost completely surrounded by the 15th and 16th century municipal buildings. Lions looking at each other from two sides of the square are a symbol of Viterbo and can be found all over the city, which is quite a pretentious imitation of Venice. It is worth visiting the beautiful Renaissance courtyard of the main town hall building with arcades and stairs, to watch Pieta Sebastiano del Piombo. You can also come to the hall, where the councilors meet (entrance through a contemporary annex through the door under the bridge). It is decorated with a series of murals depicting - with a strange mixture of pagan and Christian themes - the history of Viterbo. Similar eclecticism is characteristic of the paintings in the Church of Sant'Angelo on the other side of the square, with an old Roman sarcophagus on the facade.
There are many directions from the square. The most interesting route is left along Via San Lorenzo, across the beautiful Piazza di Gesu, where there is a small market, to the square with the macabre name of Piazza del Morte. To the left of here you come to the oldest district of Viterbo, Pellegrino district, a dense grid of steep streets descending from the arched via San Pellegrino. There are many art and antiques shops in this nice neighborhood, but half an hour is enough to see everything. On the opposite side of Piazza del Plebiscito is Piazza San Lorenzo with the most historic buildings in the city, including the Papal Palace itself, A 13th-century structure with a beautiful bypass above the green valley, intersecting the center of Viterbo, which are best admired from the open gothic loggia. You can visit the Great Hall, where a dozen or so popes were elected, but otherwise the palace is closed to the public and one has to be content with a visit to the cathedral opposite. This simple Romanesque church has the beauty of a kind rare in Italy.
Leading east of Piazza del Plebiscito via Roma, it soon turns into Corso Italia, the main shopping street of Viterbo. It leads up the stairs to Piazza Verdi with the 19th-century church of Santa Rosa. The saint's body rests in one of the chapels at the southern aisle, and on the tombstone is a doll-like figure with a forced smile, dressed in a monastic habit. To see the chapel, you have to press the bell on the right side of the entrance to the church. Besides, there is only one more district in Viterbo, at the top of the hill above Piazza Verdi. Via Matteotti prowadzi do Piazza della Rocca, a huge square dominated by the ominous building of a small archaeological museum with monuments of Etruscan culture.
Practical information
The FS train station in Viterbo is just outside Porta Romana south of the city center, Ok. 10 minutes on foot from Piazza del Plebiscito. Private station on the Roma-Nord line, from where there are also connections with Rome, lies on the other side of town, not far from the main ring road, avenue R. Capocci, on the viale Trieste. Biuro EPT (pn.-sb. 8.00-14.00) na Piazza Caduti, two minutes from Piazza del Plebiscito along via Ascenzi, has free Viterbo and area plans and provides information on accommodation. Przy via della Cava i via Cairoli, that come to Piazza della Rocca, there are a number of inexpensive hotels: Milano, via della Cava 54 (• 0761/ 30705) has doubles of approx 30 000L; Tuscia, via Cairoli 41 (• 0761/223377) offers rooms at similar prices. Places, where to eat, there is little. A light panini and pizza lunch can be enjoyed at Birreria Bevilacqua on Corso Italia 69. Something more fancy can be found in Tre Re, via Marcel Gattesco, or Piazza dell’Erbe.