From the south, the Palatine Hill descends sharply towards Circo Massimo, an elongated strip of green, where most chariot races took place in ancient times. The arena could possibly house 200000 spectators placing bets and if it was at least half preserved, would match the splendor of the Colosseum. However, only a rubble of stones at the end of the Aventino viale is left.
On the other side of Piazza di Porta Capena, on the right, on the corner of via Antonina, there are the slightly better preserved Baths of Caracalla (codz. 9.00-18.00; 3000 L). They give a much better idea of the scale and monumentality of ancient Roman buildings than most other ruins; looking at the fragments of this enormous band you can see, that the Romans did not know moderation. Only the shell remained of the thermal baths, but the walls are almost to their original height. You can see many pieces of mosaics (nothing special, but a few nice and well preserved) and easy to read the master plan. As for Caracalla, he was one of the worst and shortest rulers of Rome. In the summer, the thermal baths are still used for opera performances — that's a good thing, albeit an expensive way to get to know them in the right atmosphere.
Aventine Hill, Tescaccio and the Protestant cemetery
During the day, after seeing the thermal baths, go back along viale Valentino and take a look at the Aventine Hill, the southernmost point of the seven hills of Rome. In ancient times it was a plebeian neighborhood. Today the working class lives further south, and Aventine is one of the more exclusive areas of the city.
Church of Santa Sabina (codz. 6.30-12.45 i 15.30-19.00), not far up via Santa Sabina, is applying for the title of the most beautiful basilica in the city: tall and wide, with a 15th-century nave and a portico, which were fortunately left in their original state. Of particular interest is the main door of the church with its eighteen carved quarters, illustrating biblical history, including one of the oldest surviving representations of the Crucifixion. Santa Sabina is also the main Dominican church. Lingers, that the orange trees in the garden outside were planted by St.. Dominik. Anyway, views from the gardens to the city center and St.. Peter after the Tiber are wonderful.
There are other churches on Aventine Hill as well, and it's a nice place to stroll, for example. the road south near Priorato di Malta, one of the many buildings in the city owned by the Knights of Malta. From here you can admire the famous view of the dome of St.. Peter through the keyhole in the main gate. Below, on the other side of the road, is the working-class district of TESTACCIO, focused around two markets, with the market, a few bars and trattorias and a tight community. For many years, this district was mainly associated with a slaughterhouse, czyli Slaughterhouse, the buildings of which stretch as far as the Tiber. No wonder then, that local restaurants are famous for their excellent animal offal and are still worth visiting. However, the slaughterhouse was closed. Exhibitions are sometimes held in the large complex of its buildings, and the Roman Camllari made stables here. There is talk of rebuilding the slaughterhouse into an exclusive shopping and dining complex, but so far it has not moved on. Mattatoio will probably not be used properly for some time yet.
Monte Testaccio rises in front of the slaughterhouse, which district owes its name. This 35-meter mound was built from the shells of Roman amphoras, dumped here for about six hundred years. It is a strange sight: out of the turf, on the top of the mound, ceramic shards stick out, while caves were carved in the base of the mountain, which house car and motorcycle mechanics. A path from via Zabaglia at the end takes you to the top of the mountain, from where there is a wonderful view across the river.
On the other side of via Zabaglia, via Caio Cestio leads to the entrance to the Protestant cemetery (codz. 8.30-11.30 i 15.30-17.30; Free entrance). There is one of the holy things for the English in Rome, because Keats and Shelley are buried here (a visit to the cemetery is therefore a complement to the tour of their home in Piazza Spagna) and other famous characters. The cemetery creates a small and surprisingly secluded enclave, hidden behind a mossy pyramid-shaped tomb, where a man named Caius Cestius was buried. (A number of cat families live here). Keats is resting next to his friend, the painter Joseph Sevem, in the corner of the old part of the cemetery near the pyramid, and the tombstone was marked with words as he wished: "And his name is written on the water". Sevem died much later than Keats, but he wished to be buried here anyway, with brushes and palette. Shelley's ashes were brought here at Mary Shelley's request and buried after overcoming many difficulties posed by the papal authorities in the new cemetery on the opposite side. Gramsci was buried in the central part at the right edge of the cemetery. If you're interested in celebrity graves, at the entrance it is worth renting or buying (4000 L) informant.
It takes quite a long time to go back to the center, but you can go by bus. With sufficient energy, you can also return with the long colon along the Aurelian Walls, erected by Emperor Aurelian in 275 r. n.e. and the surrounding seven hills of Rome. The best-preserved section of the walls is between Porta San Paolo and Porta San Giovanni. It is quite a walk, which, however, ends just a kilometer from the Colosseum. Other attractions, for which it is worth venturing further south, require at least a bus ride.