Contrade
In addition to the medieval buildings, Siena has also preserved the old division into districts, or contrade. They form the basis during palio competitions (see text in frame) and give each region of the city a specific climate, clearly perceptible, when you walk the streets. Each of the seventeen contrades — originally there were sixty of them, which was related to military commitments — has its own church, cultural centre and museum. Each also has an animal emblem depicted in a modern sculpture-fountain in its own square. In the past, there were social differences between individual districts, and although today they are practically blurred., belonging to a given contrada – broadcast at the time of birth – remains an essential element of social life.
Museums of individual contrades, with exhibitions of awards won during palio, are open to tourists in the period preceding the races and in other periods, by appointment by phone (ask at the tourist office, to call). Each contrada also has its own annual celebrations., accompanied by parades and festivities. Almost all year round you can meet on the streets of comparse groups practicing flag waving and beating drums.
Palio
Sienese Palio is the most spectacular festival in Italy: this horse race through the piazza del Campo is preceded by days of preparation, medieval spectacles and intrigues. Only ten contrades take part in a given race; are selected by lottery, horses and jockeys are also randomly assigned (who are not local). The only rule of the game is, that riders cannot touch each other's reins. Everything else is acceptable and practiced; every contrada has a traditional rival and bringing about his defeat is equally important, like your own victory. Jockeys are bribed, to lose or flogg the rival's horse; happened, that contrades gave horses doping agents or even kidnapped other people's jockeys on their way to competitions. It is a spectacle, which Sienese organize mainly for themselves. Anyway, for the guests there is a veneer of brutality and rivalry and a celebration of victory full of many days full of boasting, can be very shocking.
The race has been held at least since the beginning of the fourteenth century. Originally, the route ran through a larger area of the city, but from the sixteenth century onwards. three laps del Campo, along the track sprinkled with sand and protected on the sides with mattresses, to minimize damage to horses and riders. Palio takes place twice a year, 2 July and 16 August, with the following preliminary events:
29 June and 13 August: Horses for a given year are presented in the morning at the town hall and a draw is made. O 19.15 the first trial race takes place on del Campo.
30 June 1 14 August: Further test races for 9.00 i 19.45.
1 July and 15 August: Two more test races for 9.00 i 19.45, after which in the evening in each contrade there is a street banquet.
2 July and 16 August: Ceremonial opening of palio with the last trial race for 9.00. In the afternoon, each contrada takes a horse to church for a blessing. (a good omen is, if the horse defecates). About 17.00 the town hall bell begins to ring and the riders along with the comparse — the horses, Ensigns, paziowie and dobosze in medieval costumes —
go to Piazza del Campo for a flag parade and other spectacles.
The right race starts at 19.45 in July, and o 19.00 in August and lasts little more than an incredibly exciting minute. There are no megaphones, by which it would be informed, What is going on. At startup (in the north-west corner of the square) all but one of the horses are crammed between two ropes; the free horse advances from behind and the race begins. It is a crazy and brutal spectacle; horse, who will dump the rider, can still win. Jockeys do not stop behind the finish line, but they are outside the square, chased by a feverish crowd of fans. The palio itself is a silk sash, which is later received by the winner.
Seats in the stands for dignitaries and the rich are hellishly expensive (and bought for a few months ahead), but most of the viewers crowd (for nothing) in the middle of del Campo. To see well, you need to take a place at the internal barrier (preferably at the start and finish line) before 14.00 and sit there for six hours; otherwise there is no rush, because from every place you can see something there. Sanitary facilities are minimal, but the crowd drinks very little. For about two hours after the end of the event, it is impossible to leave the center.
During the palio period it is very difficult to find a room, if you have not booked it in advance, so you can spend the whole night on your feet or drive from a nearby town. Races are shown on television, with endless replays throughout the evening.
The center of Siena is the great square of Il Campo, built at the intersection of the main streets of the city, Banchi di Sopra, Banchi di Sotto i via di Citta. They radiate from the center, having on both sides one of the three medieval terzi, i.e. quarters: Terzo di Citta to the southwest, Terzo di San Martino to the southeast and Terzo di Camollia to the north. This central core — almost entirely medieval in plan and face — was closed to traffic in the 60s.. Orientation in the terrain is therefore easy and pleasant; all the more interesting sights can be easily visited on foot.
Arriving by bus you get off at via Curtatone, in front of the Church of San Domenico, from where you can watch the city spread out below, dominated by the cathedral and the bell towers of the town hall. The train station is less conveniently located — 2 km northeast in the valley below the city; buses go from here to Piazza Matteotti, at the end of via Curtatone. By car, follow the arrows to the center and find a parking space in Piazza Gramsci, just north of Piazza Matteotti; parking issues receipts valid for a day or half a day.
Accommodation
Finding a room is less of an effort than in Florence, although, as always, it pays to call in advance. Otherwise, head to the Cooperativa "Hotels Promotion' booth" (•288084), opposite San Domenico on via Curtatone, or to the AAST office in via di Citta 43 (• 280551). In the former, you can book a room in one of the thirty hotels in the city or in one of the two residenze turistico; AAST offers lists of rooms in private houses and very good (and free) contour maps of the city and the surrounding area. Some of the private rooms are occupied during the academic year by students, in others, the minimum stay is a week— but it's still worth trying to look for something; rates are approximately 25 000-30000 L for two.