Restaurants in Rome
Roman culinary specialties are not very appetizing (tripe, cerebellum, veal, offal), but they even appear in the cheapest menu. The prices in all but the most exclusive premises are surprisingly uniform: behind 20000 L you can enjoy a full meal with wine in most central Rome restaurants, and the quality is kept at a reasonable level even there, where it is swarming with tourists. There are many good places in the centro storico and there are no thieves' prices everywhere, while cheap venues should be found on via Cavour and around the Stazione Termini, although this area is not recommended by culinary specialist magazines. You can also eat cheap and decent in the Borgo district around the Vatican. Trastevere is a traditional cluster of restaurants in Rome, today plagued by tourists, but you can still find good and inexpensive premises there.
Central Rome
Al Leoncino, via del Leoncino 28. Tania, authentic pizzeria, known almost exclusively to the natives.
Mustache, via Govemo Vecchio 114. Little, really authentic pizzeria, which has been an institution for years, although nowadays it suffers from a flood of tourists. What a strange thing, prices remain reasonable, and in the summer there are tables outside, but you always wait in line. Open 18.00-1.00. Nd. closed.
Bibliotechina, street of the Redemptorists, za Largo Argentina. Not to be confused with the neighboring Bibliotecha. Cheap pizza and beer in the friendly atmosphere of a German beer cellar.
Chianti Corsi, via del Gesu 88. Old-style wine cellar, a few tables at the back. Good food, low prices and friendly service ensure an eternal crowd. We recommend it for lunch at noon.
From Mario, Piazza del Coppelle 51. Plain good restaurant, close to the Pantheon, but unknown to most tourists.
From Loreto, Course V. Emanuele. Food rather mediocre, but low prices and good central location. Open at lunchtime.
From Seventh, via delFArancio 50. Delicious and innovative dishes, which justify the higher prices. Casual atmosphere and friendly service, although there is a certain artistic snobbery. Nd. closed.
Cod fillets, Largo dei Librari 88. Like French fries, only no fries. Laminate tops, cheap wine and beer, fried cod po 3000 L. We recommend. Nd. closed.
Bunch of Gold, Square of the Chancellery 80. The place strangely avoided by the tourist beetle on Campo dei Fiori. Authentic Roman cuisine and the traditional atmosphere of a trattoria. Described in the New Yorker as the epitome of Rome. Prices in the upper registers. Nd. closed.
II Coral, via del Corallo 10. Modern, nice restaurant, where one comes alive, mixed company, and the delicious food - especially the pizzas - definitely grows above average. Fashionable, and therefore not very cheap, but we still recommend it. Pn. closed.
The Rich Salad, Largo di Chiavari 85. Anglo-American company in a restaurant characterized by an informal and a bit unusual atmosphere. Interesting salads (as the name suggests), some healthy food and village cuisine at reasonable prices. Wed. closed.
Le Coppelle, via delle Coppelle 39. Little, a cozy and tastefully decorated restaurant behind the Pantheon. In the heart of Rome's nightlife, so it can be crowded.
Romanesque, Campo dei Fiori square 23. in the field, so some tourists come here, but also the vendors of the market, so the atmosphere is thoroughly Roman. Pn. closed. You can also go to the more famous La Carbonara on the other side of the square, where are more tourists, but you can sit outside and order from an excellent selection of antipasti.
Trattoria, via del Govemo Vecchio 18. Straight, peaceful, cheap and unpretentious - a rare enclave of ancient Rome. You won't see a tourist or Roman golden youth here.
Trattoria da Luigi, Sforza Cesarini Square 23. Nice restaurant with professional service near Corso V. Emanuele. Fine for lunches, tables in a shady square. Pn. closed.
Trattoria Polese, Sforza Cesarini Square 39. Less fancy and smaller than Da Luigi on the other side of the square, but also has outdoor tables and reasonable prices. Wt. closed.
Trastevere
And, via di San Francesco a Ripa 157. Best pizzeria in Trastevere. You have to come early, so as not to stand in a chaotic line. We recommend, although the place is slowly becoming caricatured. Open 18.00-23.00. Pn. closed.
The Fraschetta, via di San Francesco di Ripa 134. A calmer alternative to ho, less known, with good pizzas and outstanding desserts. Pn. closed.
Mario's, via del Moro 53. A well-known and popular cheap place, currently frequented almost exclusively by foreigners. A specific atmosphere and very favorable prices, but service can be unbearably slow. Nd. closed.
Popi-Popi, via delle Fratte di Trastevere. A good and affordable place, where in summer you can eat outside.
Trattoria G. Ficini, via Christmas of the Grandę 10. Too much plastic, but good, cheap pizzas baked in a blast oven, in which it burns with wood. Another alternative to the ho around the corner.
Trattoria Il General, via del Moro la. Opposite Mario's and therefore often empty, but food is cheap and good. Roman atmosphere and relaxed. Castelli cheap wine.
Trattoria, Piazza de Renzi 15. Unpretentious restaurant in a quiet square just outside the tourist area. We recommend.
Around Termini
The Red Stagecoach, via Merulana 271. Cheap eatery full of natives, nice atmosphere.
From Dino, via Rattazzi 16a. Almost identical to L'Archetto, but a little more exclusive (prettier tablecloths). No special menu for tourists, which in this neighborhood is usually a good sign.
From the Matriciana, via Milazzo 8b. Perfect for backpackers - only 100 m from the station, but away from the clamor. Unpretentious canteen atmosphere, it's worth having a beer and a snack. There are tables at the back, where you can order something more specific. Pn. closed.
From Pino, via Catalafima 12. This, traditionally a Roman place. One of the two or three passable pubs on this street (including Chinese at no 29 and a good pizzeria-birreria Da Adomo at no 30).
Hosteria Angelo, via Principe Amadeo 104. Delicious atmosphere (which is rare in this area). Prices below, and the quality of the dishes above the norm. Probably the best choice on this side of the tracks. Wed. closed.
Hosteria L’Archetto, via F. Turati 106. Clean, small and unpretentious, with a large selection of dishes (including pizza), as well as a bit cheaper than other venues in the area.
Bruno's Hostel, via Varese 29. More expensive than the average in this area, but calmer, and the menu is not translated into English, which proves something. A good choice for people staying in the area. Nd. closed.
Hosteria Veneta, two buildings from Dal Matriciano, but the decor is more like a restaurant. Typical menu.
Economic Pizza, via Tiburtina 44. The restaurant lives up to its name ("Economical pizza") and among the cheaper Roman establishments it is a legend. Cheapest pizza in town.
Pizzeria-Steak House, via Montebello 77. The name sounds a bit ominous, but nothing to fear. Clear, white interior with flowers on the tables. Clear menu with a choice of four "tourist sets", which are worth considering. In addition to the sets, it is worth ordering a pizza. Nd. closed.
Other districts
Federico, via di Portacastello 12. Very low prices, very close to St.. Peter.
II Cantinone, Testaccio square. Restaurant typical of the Testacciogwamo district and cheap, delicious food. Bus no 27 and tram no 30.
II Cockpit, Borgo Pio 168. A plate of spaghetti for more or less 5000 L, a stone's throw from both the Vatican and St.. Peter. There is a line of other fairly inexpensive restaurants next to Borgo Pio, not all of which are geared towards tourists.
Trattoria / Pizzeria, via Michele di Lando 32. Right near Piazza Bologna, far from the center, but it's worth the effort because of the inexpensive and hot pizzas, family atmosphere. Outdoor tables in summer. Bus no 65.
Restaurants with foreign cuisine
Italian Macrobiotic Center, via delle Vite 14. Typical vegetarian dishes, membership fee 5000 L. After paying the fee, it's cheap, atmosphere a bit soulless. Weekdays 10.00-19.30.
Dragon Garden, via del Boschetto 41. Run by an Italian-Chinese couple, a Chinese restaurant with probably the best prices in the city. Slow service, but it is worth being patient. Wt. closed.
Hosteria Africa, via Gaeta 28. Perhaps the most interesting food in the city and the first culinary mark of the newly arrived Ethiopian and Somali minorities.
Lotus, via Vespasiano 25. Away from the beaten track, supertani restaurant with Sri Lankan cuisine.
Margutta, via Margutta 119. Decorated with great taste, exclusive vegetarian restaurant, generous portions at decent prices. We recommend, despite the slightly pompous atmosphere. Nd. closed.
Namaskar, way of Penance 7. For many years it was the only Indian restaurant in Italy, therefore it is not cheap at all. Reservation of tables is obligatory (• 6547053). Nd. closed.
The Vitale Pasta, Alley of Bologna 9. Ridiculously cheap vegetarian restaurant, although boredom can be inedible at times. There is also a health food store and an information point and meeting place for the Greens (•5817404).