Other parts of the city
Away from Campo dei Miracoli has Pisa a completely different character, because tourists die in the mass of students still an excellent university. There are quiet places here, a little ethereal at night, full of chaotic squares and arcaded streets, with a group of Romanesque churches and several beautiful palaces along the Arno waterfront.
The first stop after leaving Campo is of course Piazza dei Cavalieri, great square, which opens unexpectedly at the exit of narrow streets. It was the main square of medieval Pisa, until Vasari rebuilt it into the seat of the Knights of St.. Stefan - the Crusader Order under the patronage of Cosimo I.. Their palace, łukowaty Palace of the Knights, it is covered with sgraffiti and topped with Medici busts. Opposite there is a statue of Cosimo and the convent church of St.. Stefan, designed by Vasari and bearing banners captured on the infidels. On the other side of the square is the Palazzo dell'Orologio rebuilt in Renaissance style, with arcades and a clock tower. It was a medieval palace, in which tower, members of the local Ugolino family, they were starved to death in 1208 r. — an event described in Dante's Hell and Shelley's Tower of Hunger.
Walking via Dini along Arno you reach the arcaded Borgo Stretto. To the right of it there is a city market before noon on weekdays and all day on Saturdays. Fruit and vegetable stands, Fish, meat and clothing crowd the streets around Piazza Vettovaglie. Behind the Church of St.. Michael (with a beautiful Pisan-Romanesque façade) Borgo overlooks Piazza Garibaldi by the river and connects to Ponte di Menzo. Lungarno Galilei runs left after the bridge, passing Palazzo Lanfranchi. This palace in the years 1821-22 was rented by Byron, and now it houses a school. Further on, you reach the ruined Palazzo Scotii, where Shelley lived at the same time.
Right across the river is the Museo Nationale di San Mateo (wt.-sb. 8.30-19.30, nd. 8.30-13.30; 3000 L), located in a 12th-century monastery. The harvest is currently being reorganized, but if the appropriate rooms are open, it is a must see 14th-century panel paintings by Maestro di San Torpe, Simon's polyptych” Martini and the plaque of San Paolo Massacia. The museum also collects antique armor and wooden shields (marked with the coats of arms of the city's districts) used in the annual Gioco del Ponte show.
At the lungarnia west of Ponte di Mezzo there are further palaces, and on the southern shore rises beautiful, chapel of Santa Maria della Spina decorated with turrets. He built it in 1323 r. a merchant, who acquired one of the thorns (spine) from the crown of Christ. Originally, the chapel was located closer to the river, but in 1871 r. was moved for fear of flooding.
Practical details
People usually come here for a day trip or stay only for one night, so there are no problems with accommodation. Important, however,, to call early or arrive at an early hour. City plan and list of hotels in the city and province can be obtained in one of the tourist offices: to the left after leaving the station or near Camposanto (both open Mon-Sat. 8.30-13.00 i 15.00-18.00; in the summer additionally sun. 10.00-15.00).
Currency exchange offices are located at the station, at the airport and in the middle of the row of stalls at Campo dei Miracoli. The station also has a 24-hour telephone office and luggage storage, the main post office is 100 meters away in Piazza Vittorio Emanuele.
Hotels and camping
The most attractive budget hotels in Pisa are located around Campo dei Miracoli. The elegant should definitely be prioritized, staremu Hotel Gronchi, just east of Campo, na Archbishop's Square (•050/23626); two 34000 L. Other nearby hotels include Locanda Galileo, via Santa Maria (•05040621), Garden Hotel, behind the self-service restaurant on via Cammeo, near Porta Nova (• 050/562101) and Pensione Hehetia, via Don G. Boschi 31, to the side of Piazza Arcivescovado (•050/41232). Doubles respectively from 25 000 L, 30 000 L and 25 000 L. There are also a couple of hotels — usually occupied by students during the academic year — around Piazza Dante in the city center.: Pensione Rinascente in via del Casteletto 28 (•050/502436) and Locanda Serena at via D. Cavalca 45 (•050/24491); in both twos after 18000-25000 L. If they are all full, you have to accept the need to stay overnight in the vicinity of the station. Hotels here are very average, but numerous. Among the best is Albergo Milano, via Mascagni 14, koło Station Square (•050/23162), deuce from 34000 L. Casa della Giornne is a good alternative only for women, five minutes walk from the station (first to the right), via Corridoni 31 (•050/22732), 15000 L per person.
Camping, Campsite Torre Pendente (•050/561704) it is located a kilometer west of Campo dei Miracoli on viale delle Cascine 86 (arrows from Piazza Manin). It is big, well-kept camping site, with laundry, at least, restaurant and shop; 5000 L per person, 5000 L from the tent and 5000 L from the car. The nearest youth hostel is located 15 km outside of town on the coast of Tirrenia (Ostello San Francesco, Calambrone; •050/37442), access by bus no 7 from the station.
Restaurants
In restaurants near the Leaning Tower prices are exorbitant, so walk a few blocks south, around Piazza Cavalieri and Piazza Dante, where the premises offer mainly local cuisine, and prices often take into account the state of the student's pocket. Among the most popular is Trattoria Stelio, Piazza Dante 11 (closed. sb. evening and Sun.), with meals after ok. 15 000 L and impressive, much cheaper pizzas. In Piazza Dante 1 is a cheap pizzeria without a name, and in the western direction a good tavola calda called Scarpellini Cassio, Piazza Cavalotti 14 (closed. Wed.).
In the same area, in the university building on via Martiri, koło Knights Square, there is a student canteen (half. IX — mid. VII; pn.-pt. 12.00-14.30 i 19.00-21.00; sb. i nd. 12.00-14.30). Meals from 8000 L.
Festivals and events
The great traditional event is Gioco del Ponte on the day 27 June, when teams from the north and south rivers stumble in a series of matches, pushing a seven-ton wagon down the Ponte di Mezzo. The competition has been held since the Medici times and medieval costumes are still worn. Other events - concerts, regatta, artistic events - take place in the same period, so for most of the month there is a festive atmosphere in the city. There are banners everywhere, posters and drawings on the pavement.
Of the regular events, it is worth going to one of the concerts at the Teatro Comunale Yerdi, via Palestro and more avant-garde performances (or even a rock concert) in the former church at the end of via San Zeno. There is also a dynamic art cinema in the city, New Cinemas, na Station Square.