Montalcino
Montalcino is another classic town in the hills of Tuscany. Seated inside a full ring of walls and guarded by rocca (Stronghold) presents a wonderful view from below; and from the top there is an equally beautiful panorama of the area – the vineyards themselves, orchards and olive groves. In the FIFTEENTH century. the city had a great symbolic meaning for some time: it was the last of the Sienese comunes, repelling the attacks of the Medici troops, French and Spanish, after the capitulation of Siena itself. This heroism is still venerated at the Siena Palio to this day, where the branch from Montalcino - under the medieval banner of the "Republic of Siena in Montalcino" - takes the place of honor.
The city is quiet and quite prosperous, thanks to income from tourism and Brunello wine production, considered by some to be the best in Italy. The bus will take you to Piazza Cavour on the northern edge of the hamlet. The main via Mazzini leads from here to Piazza del Popolo, a bizarre square dominated by an elongated tower of the town hall modeled on (in everything except proportions) in Sienese. From the other side, the square is closed by an elegant double loggia, almost a challenge to proportional architecture, and opposite is a wonderful and rather Germanic nineteenth-century café, Fiaschetteria Italiana.
In Montalcino, the café plays a large cultural role and is the destination of the evening passeggiata along the Mazzini. Going along the extension via Mazzini, via Matteotti, or the upper road via Ricasoli (next to the Romanesque Sant Agostino, with 14th-century frescoes), you come to the southern end of the town near Rocca (wt.-nd. 9.00-13.00 i 14.00-20.00). Impressively preserved walls surround a public park and the exclusive Enoteca - a great place to taste the famous Brunello. Enoteca also sells tickets entitling you to enter the embankments (1200 L) and glances at the famous banner.
East of the fortress, the narrow viale Strozzi runs right next to the walls, next to plots of land and orchards, to the characteristic Renaissance Santuario della Madonna del Soccorso. From here, it is not too far to walk to Piazza Cavour, where you can visit the Museo Civico and the adjacent Museo Archeologico (Summer 10.00-12.00 i 16.00-18.00; winter 10.00-12.00 i 15.00-17.00; admission to each of the museums 1000 L).Both collections are quite random.
Practical details
The accommodation base is poor. Na Piazza Cavour jest Hotel Giardano (0577/848257), with twos from 44000 L, oraz Bar / Rooms Prato, two about 30000 L, and at via Mazzini 2 Camere Idolina (0577/846434). The best choice, however, is Albergo 11 Giglio (0577/848167), with twos from 32 000 L, near Rocca on via Saloni. If there are no seats anywhere, tourist office in via Mazzini 33 should find some private room.
The best cheap meals you can eat at Trattoria Soiame, via Ricasoli 23, or at Pizzeria-Enoteca S. Giorgio in via Saloni. Avoid the temptation to taste a failed cucina nuova at the funky Eduardos restaurant.
Buses run roughly every hour to Buonconvento and Siena, most by Torrenieri, and five times a day (pn.- Sb.) to Monte Ammiata via Sant Antimo (look down). If you are going in a different direction, the more promising transport hub is TORRENIERI, with six buses a day south to Arcidosso and five east to San Quirico and Montepulciano.
Sant Antimo
Near the village of CASTELNUOVE DELL ABATE, 9 km south of Montalcino, jest Abbey of Sant Antimo, gorgeous, an isolated building that could compete with the monasteries of San Galgano and Monte 0liveto. Buses run there on weekdays, you can also go for a lovely country walk. The abbey is open only on Sundays regularly (9.00-12.00 i 14.00-17.00), but if it turns out to be closed, you can usually find a sacristan in Castelnuove - ask at the trattoria bar by the road.
Little remains of the monastery buildings - the ruined refectory and chapter house are used as barns - but the church remains in good condition. It was built in the 12th century. in soft, cream stone, which seems to reflect light differently depending on the season. The building has perfect proportions; on both sides of the rounded apse there are side chapels covered with a roof, and the inner columns run around both the apse and the nave. The details of the sculptural decorations and frescoes are equally wonderful. You can see here animal motifs characteristic of the Romanesque style and a juicy sense of humor. One of the capitals depicts Daniel in the lions' den, who is watching haughtily, how raging beasts devour his companions. The sacristy houses a series of primitive black and white frescoes depicting a rat staring intently at St.. Benedict and a couple of cohabiting pigs. More frescoes can be found in some of the rooms around the gallery, which is accessed from the nave by a spiral staircase.