Lake of Bolsena i okolica
Northwards from Viterbo you can only take the ugly Via Cassia to MONTEFIASCONE. There is also a railway along the road. If you are hitchhiking and want to get out of the area quickly, use the new four-lane highway (not marked on maps) not far north of Viterbo, which connects under Orte with the Autostrada del Sole (Al).
Montefiascone rises high on the rim of an old volcano's crater. In this Etruscan city there may have been an enormous temple of Voltumna: something like the parliament buildings for the Etruscan federation 12 cities. The 17th-century cathedral immediately catches the eye. The huge octagonal shape completely dominates the landscape, but it is less interesting than the 12th-century church of San Flaviano outside the town on the road to Orneto. It is an unusual Romanesque structure, consisting of two connected, but facing opposite sides of the basilicas. There is row XIV in the lower church- and 15th-century frescoes, as well as the tomb of Bishop Giovanni Fugger, who reportedly died of an overdose of the local Est! East ! Esl!. Tourist materials at the AAST office, via Verentana 4, contain other unreliable legends about this drink, as well as information on Amulasanta campsite, via del Lago 77 (• 85294), on the road to MARTA, w PRATO RONCONE.
Buses run from Montefiascone to ORVIETO and to most of the popular towns on the shores of Lago di Bolsena, where in hotels and restaurants you hear mainly German and English, although as a rule there is no crowds there. Less frequented, and more picturesque, is the west bank, where you can camp in the wild. Baldness, the largest lake in Lazio, fills the volcano's wide crater. The surrounding soil is extremely fertile and the shores of the lake are mostly used for crops. Dante praised the local eels, although today fishermen are hindered by the so-called sesse, unexplainable changes in the water level of a tidal type lake.
Situated on the southern shore of CAPODIMONTE, it belongs to quite large towns. This attractive city breaks into a partially wooded peninsula. The only monument worth mentioning is the 16th-century Castello Farnese, an octagonal tower dominating the headland. The forested shores are perfect for bathing; you can also take a boat to Isola Bisentina with its Etruscan tombs, five chapels covered with frescoes and another villa of the Farnese family, where the popes took refuge in the summer. The nearest campsite is located at 1,5 km away in SAN LAZZARO (open May-September; *88102).
The largest lakeside resort is Bolsena on the opposite shore, nice town, which is worth visiting even if you do not intend to stay longer at the lake. Medieval streets and alleys depart from the main thoroughfare, at the western end of which stands a well-preserved 14th-century castle. The 13th-century church of San Francesco lends character to the town square, Matteotti Square, and from time to time there are concerts and small exhibitions. In turn, in the 11th-century church of Santa Cristina behind the wide Renaissance façade built on in 1494 r. there are beautiful romanesque interiors. Saint Krystyna was in the 3rd century. n.e. daughter of the Roman city prefect, who tortured her as a Christian, to finally throw him into the lake with a stone at his feet. The stone miraculously surfaced, saving the girl's life and leaving a mark on her feet. Krystyna died soon at the age of just 12 years as a result of continued abuse. The stone is on the altar in Capella del Miracolo on the left aisle. The miracle of Bolsena took place at this altar, thanks to which the skeptical priest was convinced of the mystery of the transformation through the appearance of real blood. Adjacent to the chapel is Grotta di Santa Cristina, which was once part of the Christian catacombs.
The inhabitants of the city located a kilometer from the lake go to sleep after dark, when the bars and restaurants on the waterfront are just getting started. Closest of the campsites, most of which are outside the city, is Lago on viale Cadoma, open all year round 6 (*98191); The Pinewood, open from May to September, it is a kilometer outside the city on viale Diaz 48 (* 989801); not far from the campsite is the La Colonia youth hostel on viale Diaz 10 (*98001), open all year round. For complete information, please contact the AAST office in Piazza Matteotti.
The landscape east of Bolsena is unusual, almost lunar, cut with deep canyons due to erosion. Some of them are forested, but most are naked and barren. In the heart of nowhere is the small town of CIVITA, called in connection with the erosion of the bedrock "la citta che muore” ("city, which is dying”). People have been emigrating from Civita since the 16th century and today there are probably seven people living there; incredible, the abandoned town becomes a tourist attraction in itself. The Italian computer company is reportedly planning to buy the entire town, but for now it's worth going there because of this amazing atmosphere. This settlement, isolated on a rock, can only be reached from the nearby BAGNOREGIO.
Exactly north of the lake is SAN LORENZO NUOVO, one of the many villages on the way to Siena. There are not many monuments here, but when passing it is worth stopping. The city was built around an octagonal square. It was built in 1774 r., to shelter the people of the town of San Lorenzo, which was driven out of their homes by the then plague of malaria. By some strange architectural coincidence, the city's design is a copy of the outskirts of Copenhagen. Having some time and own transport, it is worth visiting GRADOLA located on the hill, a few kilometers to the west. There is another palace built by the Farnese family in the center of a large vineyard region. Starting in LATERA, not far from Gradoli, wyboista drug prowadzi do Lago di Mezzano, beautiful lake, which we recommend to tent owners.